Alaska Day 11: "It couldn't be funner"

You know when you think something is going to fun but than it’s, like, even better than you imagined? That was our ATV tour outside of Denali.

We had two vehicles- a 2-seater and a 3-seater. So, obviously we needed the kids to divvy themselves up. I was SURE I was going to lose this popularity contest. So, I was glad and relieved when someone (Linc) chose to ride with me.

After a brief review of the rules and an even briefer lesson on how the ATV worked, we were asked to drive a short test path. Make it through and you’re good to go. If not, well…

So in the way that she does, Marin says, “Mom, please don’t mess this up.” With that little pep talk, Linc and I were off down the 25 foot course. I’m happy to report I got a big thumbs up from the manager.

As we started down the trail, I’d offer to Linc, “bump coming” “ooh, bump ahead” “bumpity bump” before realizing the entire thing was bumps and I should just save my breath. A couple minutes later I asked him, if it was too bumpy. Linc says, “It’s bumpy but it couldn’t be funner.”

And then we saw a bull moose. Linc squealed. His whole little body seemed to be bursting with excitement.

It just got better from there. It was crazy terrain.

We stopped 4 or 5 times for a break and to take in the view. The guides- a couple from San Diego- were just sweet and encouraging and had a ton of information on the history of the land, plants, animals, and rocks.

I would have never really thought to do this, but it was a ridiculously good time. Much joy all around.

After that, we got Subway. So there was more happiest for the kids who were tired of eating PB&J and granola bars.

We then started the 4-hour drive back to Anchorage and did something so totally normal—placed a Papa Johns pizza order on the app. More delight from the backseat.

Once here in town, we checked into our final AirBnB- a funky but charming mid-century modern place right on the water. We explored a bit and played on the playground before watching more Alone and getting to bed.

Things I want to remember:

• Driving the riverbed in the ATV with the kids beaming

• More silliness with the “Wolf King” making an appearance in the backseat during the long drive

• Running through the house that felt like a mansion compared to our last hotel room

Alaska Day 10: "Zero! Zero out of 5 stars"

In one of the greatest turnaround stories of the trip, our Mount Healy hike didn’t start off well. Linc and Baya specifically were all out of sorts- crying, complaining, and yelling in frustration about the hike, hurting legs, sore toes, and general disappointment with our planning abilities. They were miserable and gave it a 0 on an imaginary 5 star rating scale and putting it in last place among ALL trip activities.

We kept going. Oddly, as the terrain got harder, their mood improved- dramatically. Looking back down the mountain, they were impressed with themselves which gave them the motivation to keep going. They were overjoyed to make it to the top—2.7 miles with a 1700-foot elevation gain. We were overjoyed too. It was truly a spectacular view.

We ate peanut butter and jelly, chips, and their bribes (M&Ms, gummy bears, and Reese’s) while using the binoculars to spot our car down below.

Backing up for a sec, we stopped at the gas station before going into the park. I’d been spinning the night before- worrying about encountering a bear. So, we stopped for bear spray just for a little peace of mind. Talking to the grandmotherly clerk (who appeared to be about 103), she said, “Oh you won’t see any bears up there. Moose, yes. Remind the kids to run zig zag.” I found this tremendously reassuring. Anyway, we finished lunch and commenting on our awesome mountain climbing abilities and headed down.

Once at the bottom, we stopped at the visitor center with 2 goals: 1) get our annual pass through the Every Kid Outdoors program that grants year-long park access for 4th graders and 2) get the Denali Junior Ranger badge. Like Kenai Fjords, Denali has an awesome booklet and the kids were really into it. I love watching them take their oath- which interestingly- is different at each (all on the same theme of conservation, learning, and enjoying parks.)

Marin proudly showing her Every Kid Outdoors pass

We were bummed that the local brewery was closed. So, we headed back to the hotel for showers and dinner outside with more cartwheels and corn hole.

I haven’t yet mentioned the weather. It’s been absolutely perfect. Sunny in the 70s during the day with cooler evenings. This picture captures it: outside in jeans, flip flops, a fire and a drink.

Things I want to remember:

• Hearing that the Mount Healy hike made it to the top of the “favorites” list (up there with sled dog puppies!)

• Getting caught up on a little work and email with the Alaska range out the window

• Buying a totally touristy t-shirt and hat (while the kids picked out MORE stuffies naming them Healy, Ranger, and Denali, respectively)

Alaska Day 9: How many more minutes?

This was a moving day. We had a 6 ½ hour trip from Seward to Denali. The drive was easy (says the person enjoying the stunning views from the passenger seat the whole way)! As we got closer, we could see the Denali peak clearly. We’d been warned that it’s often clouded in so not to be disappointed but, we had a gorgeous, clear, 70 degree day.

The kids did amazingly well and played so nicely until, like, the last 3 minutes. After getting checked into our hotel, we went into the park for a short hike near the Savage River.

We got there and found that the trail was closed because of dangerous wildlife activity. We walked over to talk to the ranger who told us that a female, teenager grizzly had lost her fear of humans. She was repeated approaching and charging people on the trail. The park biologists were able to trap her recently and put on a radio collar to give park staff a better sense of where she was. They then did a “hard release” meaning that they let her go back in the area but we loud dogs barking and horns honking in the hopes of scaring her away. No luck. She continues to come back- as fearless as ever. Yikes!

The kids couldn’t have been more DELIGHTED to escape the hike and just play in the shallow river. This was a reminder for me to let them enjoy nature how they like to enjoy it. The control freak in me wants them to do it my way.

We ended the day by getting food truck take-out, practicing handstands and cartwheels, and playing corn hole.

Things I want to remember:

• How silly sweet the kids played in the backseat for hours and hours on the drive

• The ridiculously yummy food truck fries

• The feeling of peace I always get driving into a national park.

Alaska Day 8: Sea life bucket list

For our last day on the coast, we had a couple more things to check off the list. The morning was for resting and relaxing- with dozens of games of “Subway Surfer” on their iPads. I don’t know but all four of them are really into it.

I did a short run along the coast in the morning, then did a couple loads of laundry at the house while we knocked back a few more episodes of Alone.

After lunch, we went to the dock to catch our boat in the hopes of seeing more sealife. It didn’t disappoint! Right off the bat we saw, otters- my new favorite. Then a humpback whale. Linc was over the moon- this was the one he’d been hoping to see. Then, there was a pod of really playful porpoises.

And seals…

And sea lions…

And, a ton of birds. It’s impossible to see but there are the cutest little starfish clinging the rocks at the water line.

We then went to this very Alaska-y restaurant for crab legs and fish and chips. Everyone got their favorite “special drink” of the day while all kinds of characters and dogs wandered in and out of the log cabin restaurant.

We finished the day with more ice cream and the Alone finale.

Alaska Day 7: "I promise to protect..."

We’re halfway through the trip. It feels both like we’ve seen so much and still have so much more.

Day 7 was all about protecting sea life, conservation, and the impacts of global warming. In the morning, we went to the Alaska SeaLife Center. It’s part aquarium, part interactive museum. It’s an active research center that was expanded in the 1990s with funding from the criminal settlement following the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill. Their mission is to bring people in close contact with cutting-edge marine research. The kids loved this place. I was a bit surprised because it was inside (and, if I’m honest, required a lot of reading.)

In the afternoon, we went to Kenai Fjords National Park to hike the Exit Glacier. As you drive into the park, there are small signs with years on them—starting around 1815. You later learn these are markers for what used to be the end of the glacier. We all had a moment to reflect on global warming—and that I badgered everyone into overdressing. It was a gorgeous, sunshine-y day. Everyone shed a layer and we were off.

As we started, we had what’s becoming our standard conversation on what we’d do if we encountered a bear or a moose. The park is in impeccable condition. The very busy trail goes from paved, to packed gravel up to an overlook. We then went off the approved portion and did a longer rock scramble- with stretches that made my heart skip watching the kids pass through incredibly narrow ledges. Brian is supremely confident in their abilities and they follow his directions well- it just makes me nervous when we’re out that far and up so high.

That said, I’m really, really glad we did it. This was the only hike without frequent complaints. They just love climbing and scrambling over the rocks. We got much closer to the glacier and stopped for a water break. And in a completely unexpected turn of events, Marin pull out a top molar. Okay, then.

After safely making it back to the ranger station without any animal run-ins or falling off the face of the cliff, the kids all did the Junior Ranger booklet. Initially, Baya was the only one interested.

Once Linc and Marin saw her badge, they changed their minds. One by one, they then took their oath. “I promise to protect the park, our community, and the earth….”

Continuing our beer-tasting/brewery visit streak, we then went to the Seward Brewing Company where our sweet, sweet waitress was named Virginia. She had a map of the world tattooed on her leg—and made sure we noted that it wasn’t to scale. Got it.

The brewery is on a old, touristy strip of Seward. So, of course, they have an ice cream/fudge shop next door where we stopped before heading home for dinner.

After a recommendation from a client, we’re all hooked on the show Alone. We’re watching Season 6 where they’re in the Arctic (on the Canadian side.) Their struggles to find, snare, catch, hunt, and trap food are eye-opening. We’ve all agreed that if we were going on the show, we’d pack a case of granola bars as one of our 10 items. I’m sure this is against show rules but no one in this family will be skinning a mouse any time soon.

Things I want to remember:

• Watching Linc push through a bit of fear on the hike and successfully cross the narrow ledge.

• Hearing them all take their oath to protect the earth.

• The near-constant gymnastics practice and Baya holding her handstand for a couple of seconds.

• Marin stopping multiple times on the hike to notice the beautiful view—and saying it out loud.

• Brian and I sharing a stunned laugh after hearing how much it’ll cost to ship 65 pounds of frozen fish (our haul from Homer.) Woah. Fish fry at our place when we get back!

Alaska Day 6: Good job, BOYS!

This was a moving day. We left Homer and headed for Seward. Only 80 miles apart “as the crow flies,” but without any direct roads this is stunningly gorgeous 3+hour car trip. Along the road are more wildflowers and towering mountains. As we got closer to Seward, we drove along the Resurrection River (and probably some others.) The water is this remarkable teal blue. We saw float trips and fly fishermen and… bears bathing.

After arriving in Seward, we stocked up on groceries again and got settled in our new place. In this funny, full circle moment, a Census worker stopped by. Earlier in the spring, the girls did a video on the Census and got questions answered on what happens if you’re not counted. They learned that someone will make 3 attempts to come to your door—which is exactly what was happening.

We then made it over to Seavey’s Ididaride for our sled dog tour. Like fishermen, mushers are a special people. I’ll save my comments on the character we met for an offline conversation. The tour consists of some explanation of the Iditarod and its history. Then you meet some of the dogs as they get hooked up to the sled. The guide then takes you through a beautiful, wooded trail. The dogs are really amazing and almost completely voice directed. “Good job, BOYS!”

They save the best for last—the puppy pen. Oh my gosh. Cuteness overload. I took too many pictures and am just posting them all here because I think they might have been the highlight for the kids. They’re missing their dogs like crazy.

Things I want to remember:

• Seeing bears (from within the car) down in the river playing and taking a bath in the gorgeous teal water… and seeing fisherman just around the corner

• Riding in the dog sled along the river in the sunshine

• The kids complete delight with puppy play

• All of us eating a completely under-cooked pan of brownies while watching a movie (clearly haven’t figure out the stove here.)

Alaska Day 5: Fish On

We had to get moving earlier than normal to get down to the dock by 7:30. We made it by 7:38. The boat hadn’t left and no one else appeared completely annoyed so I consider that a win. We were fishing for halibut. Looking back, I realize I hadn’t done any of the basic research to understand what, why, or where. I just trust that Brian will pick good activities and am along for the ride.

First, I had no idea we’d be on the boat headed straight into the open ocean for like 1.5 hours. We were in about 100 feet of water which just seemed like a lot. Halibut live on the bottom. So the key were learned right away is to let your line all the way out until “plunk” your lead weight hits the bottom.

I also didn’t know that halibut have both eyes on one side of their face. I’m telling you. This is a seriously strange-looking fish. I’m not knocking evolution here- it’s just totally weird.

Anyway, at our first spot, only one guy got a bite.

The captain decided to move us a little. Once in the new spot, it was just one after another.

Marin got hooked on fishing fast. She’s so competitive (in a good way). I could hear her muttering to herself under her breadth about beating the other people on the boat to be the first to pull in a fish. She’d already assumed she’d beat everyone in our family- which she did. Brian and I “got” to help Baya and Linc catch their limit and then work on ours. We were fishing for a solid hour or more and caught our 10.

Everyone LOVED it. It was fun because there was a lot of action and excitement every time you got one on the line. The deckhands were really kind and helpful—and working their asses off to pull all the fish in the boat and get them into the holding tank.

Once everyone had caught their limit, we headed back. The crew cut up our fish right there on the back of the boat. We were met by a processor who will freeze and ship it for us.

In the meantime, Brian’s looking for a new freezer and fish fryer from Home Depot and I’ll be pinning recipes. We’re going to be eating halibut for a while.

Things I want to remember:

• After catching her limit, Baya asking me if she could help me catch mine.

• Linc not shying away from the opportunity to whack the fish on the head.

• Eating out for the first time in 6 months and getting a yummy fresh mix of halibut, salmon, scallops, and shrimp- all caught in the water right out of the window. Then getting gelato on the beach and throwing more rocks into the ocean

Alaska Day 4: Throwing Rocks

Today, the kids and I went down to Bishop’s Beach in Homer before breakfast to throw rocks into the ocean. Like, all of them.

Then, Brian and I had calls until about lunch.

After arguing over whose backpack we’d pack, we went down to the Spit to catch a water taxi to Kachemak Bay State Park. Our boat captain Brian asked if we were interested in seeing some wildlife on the way. He’d seen orcas a bit earlier. As we approached, this pod of moms and babies swam by. Baya literally started jumping up and down cheering. Linc did his touchdown dance. And we got a, “that was really cool” out of Marin. Wow. It was just so, so cool.

We then stopped at Gull Island. Imagine, for a moment, the smell of a summer’s worth of bird poop from 15,000 squawking, flapping birds. Yeah, so that was that.

We also saw these tufted puffins who alluded us in Iceland. Someone better with their camera could have gotten a good picture. I couldn’t- too small and too far away.

When we arrived at the park, we started the 4.5-mile round trip hike to Grewingk Glacier Lake. The signs warning of bear sightings earlier in the day captured our attention and imagination.

Remembering Kendall’s bear attack prevention tips from Day 1, we all started looking tall and talking. A lot. Baya was particularly chatty. We finally got a chance to hear her views on use of the Polaroid to no-show socks.

The lake (and glacier behind it) was spectacular with these big chunks of floating ice. It was also freezing. We had a snack, threw more rocks into the water, and started back. Talking more and more.

As Captain Brian picked us up to head back, we saw otters eating and playing in the lagoon. This was a highlight for me. They were seriously one of the cutest animals I’ve ever seen. Their furry faces and little arms…Aw!

We got back late and had dinner around 8pm- not that anyone really felt that tired because it looks like it’s 3pm outside. There was more puzzle and showers before bed.

Things I want to remember:

• Thinking through our survival plan if Captain Brian didn’t come back to pick us up off the island. It occurred to me too late that we should probably travel with matches. I laughed when our Brian confessed that he’d scouted out a place to sleep and had started mentally divvying up the remaining goldfish crackers and almonds. (We waited for about 30 minutes and Brian the boat driver was exactly on time. This is just the things you think about when sitting on a un-comfy rock in a completely deserted cove after walking 4.5 miles worrying about surprising a mama bear.)

• Baya’s feedback that I’m on my phone too much and wasting her time when she wants to draw together. I hear that. Really.

• The feeling of the ice-cold air coming off the glacier lake.

• Marin confidently leading the way on the trail saying “hiking is really not THAT bad.”

• Feeling so thankful to bump into another couple on the trail who had bear spray.

• Linc looking for bigger and bigger rocks to throw into the water and comparing the splash to fireworks.

Alaska Day 3: Linc, look!

Linc, look! I pulled over slowly and fumbled with the buttons trying to open his back window. He had to boost himself up to see what I was talking about. My first thought was- why are you so short? (He’s not really. He’s just 6 and sinks into those back bucket seats.)

Anyway, it was a moose!

Out fetching donuts, this guy was just having some breakfast himself along the road. We watched him for a sec, Facetimed Brian and the girls, and decided to move right along when he started towards the car. It’s cliche but I was honestly surprised at how big he was- like a horse with a 70s chandelier on its head.

Back in the room, we crammed everything back into the suitcases and drove to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Area. We were first in line at the gate which gave me time to think overly critical thoughts about their poorly designed entrance. I now wish I’d taken a picture so you could see too.

Back to the important part, the AWCC is this massive zoo-like park with native animals and more signs (slightly better designed and edited) on work conservationists are doing to manage the wild populations and bring back endangered species like the Wood Bison. Linc and Baya loved it. Marin tolerated it for a while and then ended up in tears because the wolves were napping when we finally got to their enclosure. Sigh.

We then drove for 3 hours to Homer giving us all a chance to nap a bit. We got checked in and explored the Spit—the longest road into the ocean in the world with (what must be) a record number of RVs camping on both sides of the beach.

Ending the day, we cooked in, Brian and Baya started a puzzle, and fell asleep watching a movie.

Things I want to remember:

• The excitement of seeing a real live moose on the road (safely from inside our car.)

• Linc proudly acting as our guide at the wildlife park. It was all in pictures so he could read it and direct us.

• Stunning pink and red wildflowers for hundreds of miles on the road to Homer.

• The kids easily agreeing to elbow noodles after loudly fighting all the way through Safeway about spaghetti versus rotini. (Actually, I just let that memory fade. I have many other similar ones.)

Alaska Day 2: Don't get litten

I’m up. We’re all up. From about 3am local time on, our family “playlist” was on shuffle.

Where are my headphones? My iPad didn’t charge ALL NIGHT. The coffee maker isn’t working. Oh wait, it is- just need to follow the instructions. Sorry, buddy nothing opens until 8am. Please make sure you wash your hands. Shh, shh, shh. Other people are still sleeping. Don’t throw clean clothes on the floor- I’ll help you find (random suitcase item.) Mom, mom (shouting with headphones on)- I got 1128, my highest score!

And on and on.

After an exceptionally long morning, the sun mercifully came up and we were able see the hotel from the outside. The day rolled on from there.

It’s best summed up in pictures. Here are a bunch.

We had breakfast outside at the Bake Shop. You know that amazing experience when the time, food, and environment hit you exactly right? It was like that. I was starving so scrambled eggs and this amazing sourdough toast doused in butter seemed like one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

We then floated down the Portage River with stunningly gorgeous mountain and glacier views with a break for hot chocolate. After lunch, we did a 5-mile round trip hike through a rain forest to Winner Creek. The kids did remarkably well. Only once did Baya fully lay down across the trail in protest. We finished the day with ice cream before dinner and testing every beer the Girdwood Brewery makes.

What I want to remember most:

• The hours of laughs we got from recycling Linc’s term “get litten”- coined to describe the risk encountered when leaning in too close to an outdoor fireplace.

• The look on Marin’s face during the river float when she looked off and said, “It’s so peaceful here.”

• Their ability to continuously complain about leg fatigue on the hiking straightaways only to break into a sprint up and down the hills with their arms spread like wings.

• The 10-minute date Brian and I had when they ate their dinner at a separate table while we tasted a bazillion beers.

• Our float guide Kendall’s tips on surviving a bear attack.